Butter-Seared Scallops with Lemon

Scallops don’t need much doing to them, but the pan does need to be properly hot. I aim for golden edges, a tender middle and butter only at the end so it doesn’t burn.

SERVES 2 starter / side · PREP 10 min · COOK 5 min

Ingredients

• 8-10 large fresh scallops with roe (or 12 smaller), cleaned
• 1 tbsp neutral oil
• 25 g unsalted butter
• 1 small garlic clove, lightly crushed (optional)
• 1/2 lemon
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Pinch of salt
• Kitchen paper, heavy frying pan and fish slice

Method

1. I check that every scallop is clean and smells fresh, not sour. Remove the tough little side muscle if attached. If the orange roe is intact, leave it attached: these are the roe-on scallops we cooked. Keep everything refrigerated until just before you start.
2. I lay the scallops on kitchen paper and pat the tops, sides and undersides completely dry. This is essential: wet scallops steam instead of searing. Set a clean plate next to the hob so you can remove them immediately when cooked.
3. I put a heavy frying pan over medium-high heat for around 2 minutes. Add the oil and swirl. It should shimmer across the surface but should not be sending clouds of smoke into the kitchen. Do not overcrowd the pan; sear in two batches if necessary.
4. I season the scallops lightly and place them flat side down, laying them away from your hand. Leave them alone for about 90 seconds: do not keep moving or flipping them. Look for a deep, even golden crust and whitening edges.
5. I turn each scallop with tongs or a small fish slice. Cook the second side around 60-90 seconds. Larger specimens need slightly longer. The flesh should turn opaque and feel springy, not rubbery; cook thoroughly for the chosen preparation.
6. I turn the heat down to medium-low. Add butter and the lightly crushed garlic if using. When butter foams, tip the pan and spoon it over the scallops for about 20-30 seconds. If the butter turns very dark, remove the pan from the heat rather than letting it burn.
7. Lift scallops onto the plate immediately; their residual heat continues cooking them. Squeeze a little lemon into the warm butter (it may sputter) and spoon a small amount over the scallops. Add black pepper, taste and serve straight away.
8. If they released lots of liquid and did not colour, the pan was too cool or the scallops were too wet. Do not keep frying indefinitely to chase a crust: serve them tender and dry them more thoroughly next time.